I received the following email from one of my readers -
Question: Hi Susan, I recently discovered your blog and really like all the cards and tutorials. I have a question about the stamps. Why are they listed with 2 different prices and what does the WM and CM mean? Thanks!
Answer: Since Stampin' Up! started offering Clear Mount Stamps in January 2010, the catalogs now list them with 2 different order numbers, each with a different price.
The traditional wood mount stamps are listed as WM and the clear mount stamps are listed as CM. The wood mount or WM stamp sets include a separate wood block for each stamp. There are a few sets (usually alphabets) listed as "double-mounted" which means that you mount 2 stamps onto one block, one on each side, to save you space and money.
The clear mount or CM stamp sets do not include blocks which is why they are lower priced. CM stamps are packaged in a DVD size case which is a real space saver! Our awesome Clear Mount Blocks are sold separately because you only need one set regardless of how many CM stamps you own, which saves you money!
You can find my video showing how to mount each type HERE
Information about the Clear Mount Blocks can be found HERE.
Other information about the clear mount stamps HERE and HERE.
To view the complete selection of Clear Mount stamp sets, click HERE.
Q: Sometimes my clear mount stamps don't stick very well on the blocks. What am I doing wrong? Does the cling wear off?
A: I've received variations of this question a few times, so here are some causes and solutions for you.
Things that can interfere with Clear Mount Stamps clinging to Clear Mount Blocks • Dust, glitter, stray bits of embossing powder or paper lint. • Hand lotions or body oils transferred in the form of fingerprints or smudges. • Low humidity or dry air can make the stamps less "clingy." This is common during the winter months or if you live in a dry climate.
Solutions and suggestions: • Make sure that your Clear Mount Block is clean. I suggest using Stampin' Mist and a paper towel. Buff dry till it shines. • Check your stamps to be sure that the back or vinyl side is clean. If in doubt, dampen a paper towel with water or Stampin' Mist and wipe off the stamp. Buff dry. • Beginning with a clean stamp and clear block; set your stamp, rubber side down onto your work surface. • Hold the clear block close to your mouth and exhale your warm, moist breath onto it to create a slight "fog" of moisture. • Immediately press it firmly onto the stamp. Press and hold for a few seconds.
• When finished for the day, always store your stamps in their cases and your Clear Mount Blocks in the Clear Block Storage Caddy. The caddy is a great way to keep your blocks organized and out of harm's way. By using the caddy, your clear blocks are always together and you don't have to worry about them being dropped and scratched or being on your work surface when you accidentally spill embossing powder or glitter.
Remember that the clear blocks can be purchased individually or as a discounted bundle!
I've been getting lot's of email about the vinyl I use for converting wood mount stamps to clear mount. So today we'll do some Q&A -
Q: What are the measurements of the sheets? Do you have an idea of how many stamps can be converted per vinyl sheet (I realize the sizes vary so much, just hoping for some idea on how much I need)? And then my last question is the price for the sheets, does that include s&h?
A: The sheets are 9" X 12". This picture shows how many stamps can fit onto one sheet of vinyl. I've outlined a 9" X 12" rectangle on a piece of grid paper and filled it with stamps. I'm packaging it in super strong 10" X 13" Tyvek envelopes and there will be paper separating the sheets of vinyl. This is not the type of tissue paper that I use to stamp on, it simply keeps the vinyl from sticking together. Prices include shipping.These are only $1.75 per sheet when you order the pack of 15!!
Q: Do I have to use StazOn ink?
A: I recommend StazOn because it has given me the best results. I tried the Classic Black ink and it looked great for about 2 days until it started to bleed. You can still see the image, but it doesn't look as sharp or as nice as when I used StazOn.
Q: When I put the stamp onto the tissue paper, it "bleeds" the image a bit - the result is an image that isn't nearly as crisp as the image truly is. I'm using StazOn. It seems to bleed when I hold it down to trace around the stamp edge. Do you have any sugggestions for overcoming this? My only thought would be to stamp it onto regular paper, but I'm not sure if that will be too thick?
A: Make sure your ink is dry before applying the glue. Is your StazOn ink pad a new one? Does it have allot of ink? It's possible that the stamp is getting too wet and that is causing the bleeding when you hold it still for the time required to trace around it. Maybe, as an experiment, you could stamp it once -lightly- onto a piece of scratch paper and then onto the tissue - hold it still & trace. Check if that gives you the desired results. I would not use text weight paper as you risk it cracking with repeated use. The tissue paper is so thin and flexible that I haven't had any problems with it.
Q: Can I just use the sticker that comes with the stamp set instead of stamping on the tissue? Why use the vinyl when the dried Tombow will stick on the clear block without it?
A: I don't recommend this because, over time, it could start to leave a sticky residue on your clear blocks that could be hard to remove. Also, if you leave a stamp on the block for too long, you risk damage when removing it as it could try to bond permanently.
Q: When you are using a new wood mount set that has not been mounted, you stamp an image on tissue paper first. Is there a reason why you don't just put a layer of Tombow glue on the top of the image sticker sheet that comes with the set and put vinyl on that?
A: I had thought about doing what you suggest, but didn't because of the possibility that joining the plastic image sticker directly to the vinyl will cause the glue to break down over time and get gunky. Then the vinyl & sticker would slide apart leaving a mess.
Q: My question is in with regards to now storing the new clear mount stamps. I've read on other sites where clear mount stamps are not supposed to be stored on acetate sheets because they will eventually bond permanently. How do you store you new converted clear mount stamps?
A: I use the Stampin' Up! cases, item #119105 available from my online store anytime.
Tips: Always check to be sure your blocks and the inside of your case is clean and dust-free. That can cause stamps not to stick. When using either the cases or even the clear blocks, it helps if you press and hold the stamp in place for a few seconds. Another thing that can help your stamps cling more securely to the clear block is to "huff" or exhale your warm, moist breath onto the block before sticking the stamp on. When I convert some stamp sets, I put one set on each side of the case and slip a piece of card stock between. That way I can store 2 stamp sets in one case and save even more storage space!
Here's a picture of a retired set that I converted. I hope this has helped. Thanks for your emails and questions. You're keeping me on my toes!
Susan ; )
Ordering info. is at the bottom of this post. Thanks!
Many of you have seen my videos and photo tutorials on converting your wood mount stamps to clear mount using my Tissue & Vinyl Technique and have successfully converted your stamps. Well, guess what? I finally have vinyl back in stock and ready to go! Order buttons are below. If you haven't seen my technique before, you can find all the videos and photo tutorials here. This is the most cost efficient method you'll ever see (only $1.75 per sheet in 15 sheet pack) and it leaves your converted stamps with indexing labels just like the clear mount stamps we sell! We also have empty stamp cases that match all your other clear mount sets. You can find the clear mount stamp cases here. Only $5.95 for a pack of 4!
Here's an example of how converting your stamps can make them easier to use as well as
taking up less storage space. These letters are from the Lovely Letters set which is only available in wood mount. I got this set after I developed my Tissue & Vinyl Technique and used the instructions shown in video #2 HERE and also the beginning of the photo tutorial HERE. As you can see in the first photo above, it's easy to line up the letters using our Grid Paper and then you just set your clear block over the stamps and press to adhere. And here's a card I made using my converted stamps. Tracy has a birthday coming up soon, I hope she doesn't see this!
STAMPIN’ UP SUPPLIES:
Lovely Letters Alphabet stamp set 115030
STAMPIN’ UP INK PADS: 119670 Early Espresso, 101406 Jet Black StazOn
STAMPIN’ UP CARDSTOCK: 101650 Very Vanilla, 100702 Old Olive, 102544 Rose Red
STAMPIN’ UP ACCESSORIES: 121782 Springtime Vintage Designer Series Paper, 104152 Paper Cutter, 110755 Multipurpose Liquid Glue
NON-STAMPIN' UP ITEMS: 8 mil or .008 clear vinyl, white tissue paper, tape, scratch paper, pencil
Click the "Shop Now" tote to order any stamping supplies you need!
I've been getting some questions about the new Stampin' Up! Clear Mount stamps, so I thought I'd create a "Frequently Asked Questions" segment and share it with you today.
Q: Why am I having trouble getting my stamps to stick or cling to the acrylic blocks?
A: If you press and hold the stamp in place for a few seconds it will create a stronger hold. If you still have trouble, check to be sure they are free of dust. You can also try providing a tiny amount of moisture by huffing or exhaling on them. This works sort of like a suction cup clinging to a window. If it has a bit of moisture, it holds better.
Q: After using it a few times, my stamp won't stick to the acrylic block anymore. Help?
A: Each time you handle the stamps and the blocks, your fingerprints (which contain natural body oils) can transfer onto them. Not to mention dust, glitter, embossing powder, etc. Anything getting between your stamp and the acrylic block can cause them to lose their grip on each other. Always check to be sure that your acrylic blocks and stamps are clean and dust-free. It's the vinyl side (the side that you stick to the block) that we're concerned with. The actual rubber side you treat the same as traditional wood mount stamps. To clean the vinyl side of the stamps, use a cloth or paper towel dampened with water or a 50/50 mixture of Stampin' Mist and water and then buff dry. For the acrylic blocks, you can use Stampin' Mist or if several are in need of cleaning just dump them in a dish of soapy water, rinse well and buff dry.
Q: Why does the stamp fall off the block when I clean it?
A: Because the Clear Mount stamps were designed to be temporarily and not permanently attached to the blocks, they will come off if you clean them too vigorously. Just brush them more gently across the Stampin' Scrub and you'll be fine.
Q: Some of my stamps come off when I use VersaMark. What's up with that?
A: This is more likely to happen with the small stamps because they have less surface area to cling to the acrylic block. VersaMark is rather sticky and it can pull the smaller stamps off the block. Larger stamps should be fine.
I hope this helps and feel free to email me if you have any other questions.
Are you ready to try these great new stamps? Easy to use, less expensive and easier to store!
Visit my online store to see all the different sets we have to offer. I'm sure you'll find several that tempt you! Susan ; )
Many of you have seen my "Wood Mounts & Clear Mounts & Stamps Oh My!" videos 1 - 3 showing my technique for converting wood mount stamps to clear mount and I promised a picture tutorial as well. Here it is, I hope you enjoy it. (The videos can be found by scrolling down to the 02/07/2010 post entitled; "If you are thinking of converting from wood mount to clear mount, check this out!")
The vinyl I'm using is simply 0.008 (AKA 8 mil or 8 gauge) clear vinyl I purchased from a fabric store. Other supplies are stamps, StazOn Jet Black ink pad (item #101406), Tombow Mono Multi liquid glue (item #110755), pencil or pen, tissue paper and scratch paper. A few other supplies are listed below as they are needed when we work with a tiny stamp and when we remove an already mounted stamp from it's wood block.
Converting an unmounted stamp
Tape tissue paper to a piece of scratch paper. This step is just to keep the tissue from moving around while you work. Taking a stamp that has not been previously mounted; ink it using black StazOn and stamp and hold onto tissue paper - DO NOT MOVE THAT STAMP!
Using a pencil or pen, trace around the entire stamp. You can now set aside your stamp.
Place a small amount of Tombow Mono Multi on your finger and gently apply a thin, even coat to the entire stamped image extending outside the traced lines. Set aside until glue has dried clear and tacky.
Lay small piece of vinyl over the dried Tombow Mono and smooth it onto the tissue.
Remove and discard the scratch paper.
Firmly rub over the vinyl to securely adhere it to the tissue.
Trim out the image cutting along traced pencil lines. This is now your indexing label.
Remove paper backing from stamp to expose adhesive.
Align and attach tissue side of your indexing label to cushion side of the stamp and press together.
Rub over indexing label to firmly adhere it onto the stamp.
Buff with cloth or paper towel to remove fingerprints. You have successfully created a clear mount stamp!
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Symmetrical Stamps
The first picture above shows how a symmetrical stamp can be difficult to convert because both the stamp and the indexing label are the same shape. How can you tell if you're getting the circle image correctly aligned onto the back of the circle stamp? We solve this problem by changing the stamp so it is no longer symmetrical. Look closely at the border of your stamp to find an area of excess rubber that is not part of the image. Using your Craft & Rubber Scissors (item #103179), snip a small notch out of that area. It now looks like the picture on the right. Repeat the steps as before; stamp onto tissue and trace around the stamp including the notch you cut, apply Tombow Mono Multi, allow to dry till it's clear and tacky, attach vinyl, cut out along traced pencil lines.
Your stamp and indexing label will look like the picture on the left. Remove the backing from the stamp to expose the adhesive, align the indexing label to the stamp using the notch as your reference point and smooth together. Now you will have them perfectly aligned!
A B
C D What if you have a symmetrical stamp that doesn't have a border of excess rubber that you can notch? The way to handle this is to (A) look at the stamp to find a part of the image design located close to the edge that you will remember. (B) Draw a line with a permanent marker on the edge of the cushion adjacent to that part of the image. (C) Now, on your finished indexing label (vinyl covered tissue) find that same part of the image design. (D) Align that part of the indexing label with the mark you made on the cushion. Perfect!
Tiny or long narrow stamps can sometimes be difficult and fold over or tip over when you're working with them. Here's how we overcome that. Same as before; stamp onto tissue paper using StazOn and trace around your stamp. Apply the Tombow Mono Multi and set aside to dry until clear and tacky. Here's the different part: we need a small piece of Parchment Paper. If you're not familiar with it, Parchment Paper is used for baking and is typically found near the wax paper and plastic wrap in the grocery store. Use it the next time you bake cookies and you'll love it! The reason we're using it here is that Parchment Paper will act the same way as the backing sheet on our unmounted stamps. Later, when you need to remove it from the tissue, it will separate easily and not tear the tissue. It has a slight texture on one side; apply the textured side over the dried tacky Tombow Mono Multi and press it down. After you have smoothed the parchment and tissue together, trim out your image along the traced pencil lines.
Carefully begin to separate the parchment from the tissue and fold it over exposing a small portion of the tissue. Be careful as the tissue can try to curl at this point and you don't want that. Place the exposed sticky part of the tissue onto your vinyl and slowly remove the rest of the parchment, smoothing the tissue as you go.
Turn it over so the vinyl side is up and firmly rub to secure the vinyl to the tissue. Now trim the vinyl leaving a 1/8" or larger border on all sides. This gives the stamp more support when clinging onto your clear block, making it more stable and helping to prevent it from tipping over. Next is a picture of a long narrow stem stamp that I gave a wider vinyl border. It is now very stable. The glare is light reflecting off the vinyl. Yes, it's really a stamp and not a worm!
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Converting a stamp that has already been mounted onto a wood block
Begin by placing your wood mounted stamp in the microwave. Note: Each microwave oven is different, so your time may vary from mine. Microwave on high for 8 - 10 seconds. Carefully peel rubber stamp with cushion intact from the wood block. Most of the adhesive will remain on the wood block, so your stamp isn't very sticky at this point. As before, use StazOn ink to stamp onto tissue paper and trace around your stamp. Apply Tombow Mono Multi to the tissue and set aside to dry. Here's what's different this time; apply a thin, even coat of Tombow Mono Multi to the cushion side of your stamp and set aside to dry until clear and tacky. When the Tombow Mono Multi is clear and tacky, attach the tissue to the vinyl, firmly adhere and trim out as before to create your indexing label. Align and attach the tissue side of your indexing label to the tacky cushion of your stamp and rub to firmly adhere together. Now you have successfully converted a wood mount stamp to a clear mount stamp! (If you haven't seen the videos, you can find them by scrolling down to the 02/07/2010 post entitled; "If you are thinking of converting from wood mount to clear mount, check this out!")
I've designed some guides to help you select what size block or blocks you need for any given stamp set. If you print these out onto our white vellum paper (#101839), you can place them over the catalog pictures and see what size you will need. Slip them into crystal clear page protectors (#103145) and they will last a long time. I've made them 1/8" smaller than the dimensions of each block to allow for the curved edges our blocks have. I just love our clear blocks! I've seen and tried many different kinds but none are as nice as these. All 4 edges are easy to grip and they are SO comfortable in your hand. No sharp edges, they're all nicely rounded. Remember they are available individually, but if you purchase them as a bundle, you save over 10%! More information is on page 6 in the Occasions mini catalog. Purchase of all 9 blocks as a set; #118491 and you get a free Sale-a-bration set or our beautiful new Scallop Trim Border punch! Just click on the yellow "Click here to order" button to get yours!
